From a previous post I mentioned a measuring gage I have been working on in my spare time. In the picture above you can see a length standard between the anvils of the coil pack measuring gage. This particular standard is one from our large micrometer set that I was testing out the repeatability of the new gage. Our coil pack happens to be an odd size compared to common micrometer measuring standards. I can easily order almost anything I want in one inch increments. For this job I decided to just create a set of calibration standards that were the nominal target dimensions of the coil pack. This odd number gets plugged into the electronic indicator and presto the gage is calibrated. I figured that I could get pretty close and the actual dimension didn't really matter as long as I know what the number is. A perfect opportunity to test my puny measuring skills against a gazillion dollar CMM.
So I went ahead and made two gages that corresponded to the nominal and horizontal and vertical measurements of the coil pack. I used some half inch diameter case hardened Thompson shaft we had in the material room and parted them off in the lathe a little long so I could precision finish the ends. The first step was to semi finish both ends to get an amount to remove to precision size. I left about .005 on the overall length for the final finishing. This was all done in a Hardinge tool room lathe in nice condition held in a 5C collet.
After finishing to length and measuring with some large digital calipers I was satisfied that I was pretty close. My guess at that point was I was within a grand (.001) of the target dimension. Now just to give you all the information these calibration rods are around a foot long and a half inch in diameter. A 5C collet has maybe an inch of gripping length for that half inch diameter. I was not spinning the part particularly fast maybe 800-1000 rpm. Something I have noticed in CNC lathes with longer parts stuffed into the headstock is part whip and how it effects the different lathe operations. Part whip can show up at unexpected times related to gripping pressure and the resonant frequency of the unsupported part in the headstock. Most times its not a real big problem but occasionally the planets align and you see some of the negative effects manifested in your parts.
So I trotted off to the inspection department to see how well I did with my lowly calipers and a light touch.
Bob runs the inspection department and was able to squeeze me in on the same day. I shot a little video of the measuring that is a little crappy, sorry. Note to self, don't use the zoom.
So my conclusion is that the rod was whipping slightly when I faced the ends. By blind luck I clocked the two faces on the one that was off .002 so that whatever error was in each end was doubled by how I oriented the second face when I finished it.
How could I have done better? Well in hindsight I might have made a little plastic bushing to fit the ID of the headstock that supported the rod concentrically. Collet clamping pressure may have played a part here. I reset the pressure part way through facing the rods. This was because I didn't lock the tightening mechanism (lazy) on the collet closer which I of course bumped causing me to need to reset the pressure. Spindle speed could have been much slower and still produced a good finish. I'm hardly likely to calculate the critical speed for every part that sticks into the headstock. So who is to say I wouldn't land on another resonant frequency. I might have used a chuck instead of the collet because of its much longer gripping surface. Any chuck runout is not a problem because I was trying to make a surface perpendicular to the rotational axis. If the chuck did not grip the part parallel with the spindle axis I might produce a surface like Bob measured. Hmmm, something else to check on the Hardinge. Collet might be junk also. Half inch collets get used quite a bit. Another thing to check.
Hindsight is obviously pretty good so what could I have done to check it in the shop with normal tools and gages a machinist might have readily at hand? I think I would start with measuring it in the machine with a test indicator. In fact I think I will do it just to see what is visible rotating it by hand with a sensitive indicator on it just for my own satisfaction. There should be no whip with hand rotation and I would be comparing the runout of the OD in a couple of places with the end face. This might expose what Bob found on the CMM inspection.
So at first glance what looks like a no brainer part has all kinds of problems. Its always the easy ones that come back to bite you. Not very much error in the grand scheme of things but what if it had to be dead nuts? So the moral of this story is, Trust but verify.
I will post an update on what I discover when I measure the parts on the machine.
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